Summer 2024 Big-RV renovations

On the three-year trip, I modified our 5th wheel RV so that the rear bunkhouse had two separate rooms, which first involved adding a door from the living room into the rear bathroom.

We’ve been thinking about what to do with the floorplan in our post-children-travel era, so this summer we decided to put in a little work on the 5th wheel.

Here’s the “before” floorplan:

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We first removed the wall between the bedrooms:

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And we’re back to one big bunkhouse:

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We want a more open floorplan, so the wall between the main room and the bunkhouse needs to go:

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That’s better:

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Next, we transformed the rear bathroom into a home office space:

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Done:

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Next, we removed the bunkhouse cabinetry:

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Done:

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Pulled out the carpet:

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Removed the slide trim:

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Blank slate:

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Removed the main room’s slide carpet:

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I had previously replaced this section of floor due to water damage from the slide not sealing correctly, but the new section was a little taller than the original floor.  I pulled it out and cut down the joists to make the height correct.

I also removed more of the original flooring that was water damaged:

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Building out the replacement floor:

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Done:

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I de-carpeted the forward half of the RV, but the stairs were not usable sans carpet, so I removed them too:

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Carpet out of bedroom:

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We added shiplap to the back wall:

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We bought a sofa for one of the bunkhouse (which is now the living room) slides.  We’re waiting for the cushions to “inflate” after unpacking them.

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The other bunkhouse slide will become the garage.  Testing the fit:

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I drew up and 3D printed a fork mount for the mountain bike:

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Works well:

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Framing the garage door:

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Done:

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I removed the sink plumbing in the former second bathroom:

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I don’t have plywood of the right thickness to plug the sink supply line hole, so I drew and printed a disc to plug the hole:

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I capped the toilet plumbing and printed a plug for this hole as well:

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I installed gas shocks to allow the garage door to be held open:

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Building a new set of bedroom steps:

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Just for fun, I modified my home standing desk and built a tabletop out of the kids’ old RV bunk tables to test the feel of the “home office”:

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The main room slide seemed to leak, which I traced to the waterproofing tape that covers the screws that attach the slide wall to the slide roof.  The screw heads had worn through the waterproofing tape, allowing in water.  I re-taped all the slides:

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Back in the garage, I added rubber flooring:

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I built a locking mechanism for the garage door.  Looking up at the underside of the open garage door:

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Garage door closed and locked:

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Bikes in the garage:

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Road bike mounted with a fork mount I drew and printed:

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That’s it for now!

Truck Camper Utility Liberation: Mini-Split Air Conditioner

I mounted the compressor of the mini-split air conditioner (900BTU of cooling, 23 SEER2 efficiency rating) on the rear of the truck camper, which required removing the ladder.  Not a problem, since the roof is covered in solar:

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I mounted the air handler:

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I then had to drill a hole behind the air handler to the outside of the truck camper for the drain line and coolant lines, and ran the coolant lines up to the roof and back down to the compressor.  My neighbor happens to have an HVAC installation company, so he pressure tested my lines, then vacuumed them out so the coolant in the compressor could be released into the lines.

This air conditioner is amazing!  Instead of “all on / all off”, the compressor uses a variable amount of power to provide a constant level of cooling based on the thermostat setpoint.  Power consumption seems to range from 900 watts down to about 100 watts.

I can now park anywhere and have A/C and broadband Internet without any hookups!  This is a real game-changer, as it allows me to visit and stay in locations that would be too hot otherwise.

Truck Camper Utility Liberation: Solar and Battery Mods

The goal for summer of 2023 is to get off-grid (solar) air conditioning working.  This is the last step to having a completely off-grid RV.

The first steps are to increase solar absorption and battery capacity.

Since we haven’t used the big RV in a number of years, I decided to harvest from it the solar panels and solar charge controller.

I laid out the solar panels from the big RV (left), the truck camper solar panels (center), and the seven new panels I purchased.  The Starlink dish will be mounted to a wood panel in the empty spot:

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The panels will completely cover the roof, so the existing power-hungry and noisy rooftop A/C unit needs to be removed:

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Hello down there!

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I installed a powered roof vent to plug the hole:

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Let’s get mounting panels:

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As I approached the rear of the roof, I realized that the Starlink would be easier to work on if it is mounted not surrounded on both sides by panels, so I switched the middle and right rows:

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All panels installed, Starlink installed:

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Taking voltage and current limits into account, I put the 4 big-RV panels on the big-RV’s Morningstar controller (left).  The 4 original truck camper panels and 7 new panels are electrically identical, so I wired 8 of them in a 2P4S configuration and attached them to the truck camper’s Renogy controller.  The 3 remaining panels are attached to the new Rich Solar controller:

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More battery is always better, so I ordered 4 more LiFePO4 cells and a new BMS.  Combined with the original cells, I now have a 24V, 304AH (7.3kWh) battery.  Fits nicely in a milk crate!

Testing the new battery, using the new 24V inverter to run a space heater:

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All that’s left is to install the new air conditioner!

Fixing Truck Camper Tie Down

The front driver truck camper tie down pulled out when I applied tension to it.  To fix the problem, I first removed the broken water heater:

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The wood into which the tie down was mounted is in bad shape:

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I reinforced the wooden frame and installed a new tie down, then used the water heater cover to seal the hole where the water heater used to be:

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Looks good:

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