Summer 2017, Day 27: The Eclipse of 2017

In the morning we were rudely awakened by shouting Walmart employees collecting scattered shopping carts. Overnighting at Walmart is certainly convenient but doesn’t usually lend itself to a restful night. It was 6am and the sun had yet to rise, yet the temperature was already in the mid-70s with humidity around 80 percent.

Welcome to Southern Kentucky.

After breakfast, we repositioned the RV to a gravel stub off the end of Walmart’s access road. Being out of the Walmart lot itself, we could now unfurl our awning in an attempt to slow what would be an inevitable rise in the cabin temperature. Our generator is only powerful enough to power one of the RV’s two air conditioners, so the best we could hope for today was reduced humidity inside the RV and a temperature a few degrees cooler than the 95 degrees forecasted outdoors:

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The partial eclipse was scheduled to start shortly before noon, so we set up our folding chairs, prepared the binoculars (for totality only), and donned our eclipse glasses. I also set up a small telescope with a solar filter affixed to the end of the telescope and a photographic adapter that allowed my DSLR camera body to mount directly to the back of the telescope, With the flip of a lever, I could direct the telescope’s light either to the eyepiece or the camera.

We were ready.

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Our reposition to Kentucky paid off, with completely clear skies forecasted for the whole day. At noon, we watched through solar glasses and telescope as the Moon began its slow crawl in front of the Sun. Totality was scheduled for around 1:30pm, and by 1pm the air temperature begin to fall and the sky started to darken slightly. It wasn’t like sunset because the sun was still overhead, rather it was as if we was looking through increasingly dark sunglasses. Note the sunspots: 

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The effect became extremely pronounced in the last ten minutes before totality. The temperature had fallen from 90 to about 80, and the sky somehow felt heavy, as if the darkening celestial sphere was pressing down on us.

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In the minute or so before totality, the sky darkened rapidly, as if the Sun was being controlled by a heavenly dimmer switch:

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In the seconds before totality, we viewed the Sun without the solar glasses and saw the “engagement ring” effect as the last sliver of the Sun desperately peeked around the Moon:

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Then totality.

We all gasped as the sky went twilight-dark and bright stars and planets sprung to life in the sky. Set on the sky’s dark blue background was the black hole that was the Moon:

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Spreading out beyond the Moon’s edge was the Sun’s white Corona. It stretched away from the Moon like a cotton ball being pulled apart:

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In the binoculars and the now-unfiltered telescope, we could see red prominences protruding rope-like from the Sun’s concealed surface:

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It was the strangest two-and-a-half minutes of my life. At that moment, the Sun had ceased to exist. It was as if creation itself had been profoundly and permanently altered. I was deeply moved by experience, and had to blink back tears as I looked through the binoculars.

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As if unwinding a vast celestial mechanism, all the events we witnessed minutes before repeated themselves in reverse. The Sun’s edge, impossibly bright, forced itself past the Moon’s concealment, creating a second “Engagement Ring” effect:

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The light level rapidly “came up” as if at the end of a play and the Sun began to move away from its temporary prison. The light level slowly increased and Walmart employees and shoppers went back to what they were doing.  I desperately tried to hang on to what I had experienced, to force into my memory all the strange sensations I had experienced only minutes before.

Views of the sun after totality:

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The sun, projected between gaps of leaves onto the ground, creates crescent-shaped highlights:

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The end:

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It’s late afternoon now. The Sun is now completely free of the Moon’s temporary embrace. We have another few days to travel until we return to New York. We will visit and experience natural wonders and locations of historical significance, but I suspect they will all pale in comparison to the 150 seconds of miracle we experienced today.

In what has been called the “golden age of American eclipses”, today’s eclipse is a preview of two more cross-country eclipses in 2024 and 2045. In less than seven years, the Moon will once again conquer the Sun, this time over the skies of upstate New York.

We decided to stay here for the rest of the day so I could write an article for Mishpacha Magazine about this trip and our eclipse experience, due Wednesday.

See the alternating light blue line on the trip map for today’s drive.

Summer 2017, Day 26: Truman NHS, Grant NHS

On Shabbos day, after a nice davening, the shul had lunch together in honor of the one-year anniversary of a member couple. Shabbos in Leawood reminded me of how strong and special small out-of-town communities can be. After Shabbos, our RV neighbors from Brooklyn decided to drive over to a local Walmart and sleep there just to have the experience.

Today we left Leawood and continued East, crossing into Missouri. In the morning we visited Harry Truman National Historic Site in Independence, Missouri.  We parked a few blocks away and walked over.  Interesting street names:

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We learned about America’s 33rd president, who fought his own State Department to have the US vote for recognition of the fledgling State of Israel in the United Nations.  Trish posed with the president:

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Our next stop was SubTropolis, a business complex built into a spent out limestone mine.  Unfortunately, access is closed on the weekends:

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Our next stop was the town of Liberty, Missouri:

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At this bank in 1866, Jesse James and his gang committed the first daylight bank robbery in US history.  We came here because a relative of mine was shot and killed during that robbery:

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The museum was closed, but we were able to peek through the window:

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We continued east to visit Ulysses S. Grant National Historic Site in St. Louis, Missouri.  The visitor center:

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I found this quote amusing considering that, that as a Civil War General, Grant issued General Order 11 which expelled all Jews from portions of Kentucky, Mississippi, and Tennessee. The order was revoked by President Lincoln three weeks later.

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The Grant home:

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We had been watching weather forecasts throughout the day, and with only 18 hours to go until the eclipse, it looked like the St. Louis area had a good chance of cloudy weather, so we decided towards sunset to reposition to the Kentucky-Tennessee border, where the forecast looked much more promising.  We saw the St. Louis arch in the distance as we continued east:

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250 miles later, we arrived in Oak Grove, Kentucky towards midnight and overnighted, naturally, at the Walmart here:

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See the alternating light blue line on the trip map for today’s drive.

Summer 2017, Day 24: Brown vs. Board of Education NHS

The end of the world?  No, just a passing front here at Lyon Lake in Kansas:

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We drove east to Topeka, where we visited Brown v. Board of Education National Historic Site:

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The visitor center is housed in a Topeka school that was all-black before the court case forced the school district to desegregate:

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These signs are not period-authentic, as the school was all-black, then desegregated:

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Some rooms were restored to their original appearance:

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Other rooms now house exhibits:

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We continued east to Kansas City.  We had made arrangements to park at a synaogue for Shabbos in Kansas City’s Overland Park suburb, but it turned out that it had no exterior power outlets. With the forecast calling for humid conditions with temperatures in the low 90s, experiencing Shabbos in our RV under the relentless Kansas sun without air conditioning was unlikely to be enjoyable, so we made some last minute calls and were invited by Rabbi Mendy Wineberg to join his congregation for Shabbos at the Chabad of Leawood. Leawood is an outer suburb of Kansas City, and the Chabad of Leawood is the only synagogue that serves this area.

Also attending as guests were a family from Baltimore and a family from Brooklyn who were also in town to view this summer’s eclipse, which is now only two days away. The family from Brooklyn rented an RV in Kansas City and parked it right in front of the synagogue so they could carry their baby back and forth into the synagogue.

See the alternating light blue line on the trip map for today’s drive.

Summer 2017, Day 23: Barbed Wire Museum, Fort Larned NHS, Tallgrass Prairie NP

We woke up to a sunny day in the city park here in La Crosse, Kansas:

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I called the police last night to confirm that we were in the correct spot and that it was legal.  I love how laid back rural America is:

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We discovered that we parked next to a cluster of museums, all on the same property:

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We first visited the Barbed Wire Museum:

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Barbed wire art:

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This museum is surprisingly extensive:

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Each variant of barbed wire in the collection is labeled with its patent number:

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This wire was used in 1892 in Bodie, California to move power from a hydroelectric plant to the town.  It was the first attempt in history to transport power from the source to a distant destination.  It was thought at the time that electricity flowed like water, and if the wires did not travel in a straight line, the electricity would “spill out”.  The project was a success, and power flowed 12 miles to town, though the perfectly straight path of the power poles was unnecessary:

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This nest was built by ravens out of strands of barbed wire.  It weights over 70 pounds:

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A setup like this, a modified coffee grinder and grinding wheel, was used to create the first strand of barbed wire:

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A fence stretcher:

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Fence posts:

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The barbed wire hall of fame, which honors barbed wire collectors:

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Our next stop was the Rush Country historical museum:

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Our third stop was the post rock museum:

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Trees were scarce in the plains states, so fence posts were made out of limestone:

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Our next stop was the bank musuem, in the closed bank building moved here from Nekoma, Kansas:

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The last museum here was a one-room schoolhouse, also moved here from Nekoma:
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We continued east to Fort Larned National Historic Site:

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The fort was built in the mid-1800s to protect traffic along the Santa Fe Trail from hostile Native Americans:

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The visitor center was interesting:

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This photo shows William Bent, one of the brothers who built Bent’s Old Fort, which we visited yesterday:

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Our last stop of the day was Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve:

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The preserve protects and interprets the largest remnant of tallgrass prairie in America, which once covered over 170 million acres:

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The preserve also protects a historic farm.  We visited with the horse:

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We continued east to overnight at Lyon Lake, which allows free lakeside camping:

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See the alternating light blue line on the trip map for today’s drive.

Summer 2017, Day 22: Bent’s Old Fort NHS, Amache, Sand Creek Massacre NHS, Monument Rocks

Good morning from Walmart:

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Our first stop was Bent’s Old Fort National Historic Site.  Like Fort Union Trading Post, which we visited on Day 10 of this trip, this fort was built in the early 1830s to facilitate trade with local Native Americans.  The current fort is a recreation built by the NPS, built out of adobe like the original:

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The grave of a wagon driver:

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The original fort had a variety of animals:

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A peahen and her chicks:

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Our next stop was the Granada War Relocation Center, also known as Camp Amache.  Built during World War II in response to the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, Amache was one of ten Japanese American internment camps used to imprison over 100,000 US residents of Japanese ancestry, two-thirds of whom were US citizens.  This is the fourth internment camp we’ve visited:

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It’s always sobering to explore these camps.  It’s frightening to think how quickly constitutional rights can be stripped away.

Only one building remains of the over 500 buildings once here, most of them barracks:

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The foundations of the barracks remain:

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Remains of the water reservoir:

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Roads, now empty, extend in all directions:

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The vault for the coop store is only building still standing:

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Standing inside one of the barracks:

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Our next stop was Sand Creek Massacre National Historic Site.  It was here in 1864 that US Army massacred a Native American peace camp.  Most of the dead were women and children.  One of the survivors of the massacre, Chief Black Kettle, was later killed by Army forces at a peace camp at Washita, which we visited on Day 974.

The visitor center was one of the smaller ones we’ve visited.  It’s little more than a contact station, with no exhibits:
 

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After walking the grounds and reading the interpretive signs, we continued east, crossing into Kansas:

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Our last stop of the day was Monument Rocks, one of the Eight Wonders of Kansas:
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We enjoyed the changing light as sunset approached:

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We continued east to overnight at a city park in La Crosse, Kansas.  See the alternating light blue line on the trip map for today’s drive.